Saturday, October 11, 2008 -Msasani .... arusha trip...

Back at home from a three day trip to Arusha visiting Issack and Grace. Thankfully Issack had just come off a safari and still had a land cruiser at his disposal so I got around Arusha in style. The traffic in Arusha is getting steadily worse, with its growing population and decaying roads. I flinched quite a bit the first day but quickly got used to it. One of the many things that I used to be used to.

I had also forgotten about the power outages apparently. Just as we sat down to dinner last night the lights went out and I heard (and joined in) the familiar sigh of disapproval. I asked Issack: "Is the power always going out like this?" (My English is becoming less and less understandable to my own kind - I got a few sentences in with Issack's friend Lohi the other day who speaks fluent Canadian... I marveled at his frequent uses of words like "wicked" and "dude" and threw in a few "sweet"s and "Idunnoman"s of my own) Issack, being consciously difficult asked me if the power has been going out in Moshi and I answered, for some reason defensively, "Ya. Every day for at least four hours." Issack helpfully retorted with his famous "So?" (Thank you, Teacher Issack for encouraging me to problem solve and come to my own conclusions but I was pretty much just looking for a good old "yes" or "no") Communication is far from clear here at the best of times and so far my strategies for obtaining information from Tanzanians are as follows:

#1 Start asking a day or two before your information and reask your question in a number of different ways, in English and Swahili if possible and asking through a number of different parties. Text Messaging someone with a straight yes or no question will usually do the trick in a pinch, but it seems to annoy people! It is also a bit odd if you happen to be sitting next to them while you are trying to communicate through your cell phones.

2# Pretend you already know the information you needed and steal bits of intel from other conversations. Lie to yourself so that you actually believe that you never had any questions in the first place while keeping a sharp eye out for changes.


3# Sucumm to the cultural value of not needing to know and enjoy the journey of finding out, trying your best to shrug away annoying little suprises like an extra fee on a hotel room because you are white or whole day of taking care of someone's sick kids because you happen to be the only woman around.


Between the first year I came to TZ and now I have definately noticed differences in communication, though. These days, although the person you meet in a shop has no idea how to work the thing they are selling you, you are far more likely to find some kind of brochure or website telling you the exact details you need. Coming accross such an oasis of information gets me in quite a tizzy. Today I found the EXACT rates for TZ's largest competing mobile phone companies on the internet. I read it all, read it again and then saved it to my computer for future reference. So exciting!!! That is not to say however that the general
Tanzanian public is ready to accept such information in unchanging print. Information on signs, brochures and menus are certainly not the finaly word on the matter. Just try arguing with an immagration official - quoting the official Government of Tanzania Website's info on residency visas and you will see how much far it gets you... but if someone scribbles down half a sentence on a piece of paper for you and signs it - or god forbid STAMPS it - that word is law. Its incredible how long people hang on the their receipts here! Well past the time when the item they bought was broken and fixed so many times it was no longer recognizable and thrown away. I have been on a bus that checked my ticket over 5 times (I lost count). Each time, I was embarrased to be the only naughty passenger who had hid that precious slip of paper deep inside my purse and rummaged for what seemed like hours while the whole bus watched. Ummmm... ya.... I'm the only white person that's been on this bus for a week and you made a huge fuss over how much luggage I'm carrying and we fought over whether I should have to pay you more. Are you sure you don't remember selling me this ticket a few hours ago?

Those that know me well may think its a miracle I can survive in such conditions what with my keen ability to loose things in interesting places and my lack of inspiration in finding them.

Tanzania is a perfect example of development without infrastructure. Its like watching a fat kid trying to fit into clothes that are four sizes too small while gorging himself on ice cream. I supposed the information technology and the transportation and the education will eventually catch up with itself - those changes that are are useful will stay and those that are unsustainable will dry up. For now I can say this much: It will be an interesting journey.